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I kinda wanna do this to my 300 six now

that is so far from STOCK its not even funny. PLUS its pathetic numbers. Shouldnt an ACTUAL STOCK 300 pull better rear wheel numbers? Not an heavily upgraded version

Would it work on a 91 ranger twin traction beam ? Looking to remove as minimum as possible

Took mine out and fabricated the broken parts out of metal. No more problem

That was a very clear explanation; thanks!

Imagine being in an emergency situation and you can’t get out of the vehicle because ford wanted to save a few pennies by using plastic parts.

Thank you.

something as heavy duty as a ZF-5 behind a straight 6 is the pure definition of unnecessary. Not as absurd as my friend who put an Np435 and Np205 tcase behind his 302, you at least have overdrive.

Giving socket/wrench sizes used is very helpful on these types of videos.

We just put a rebuilt one in ours and it won't shift. We did a new clutch. Did the fluid too. Any ideas ?

So we just swapped our trans with a rebuilt one and cannot get it to move out of neutral... Help 😭 its a zf5 1988 f350

Good information. You could use some work on the video quality.

Where did yoy get the drop brackets?

Awesome video.

Nice truck .

Great video. Very informative.

Thanks! I appreciate the parts list, too

My newish F150 wouldn't even turn over last year. It was a bad ac clutch/pulley. Still haven't repaired it, but it's on a separate belt, so just had the belt removed.

Wouldn’t it be easier to remove the springs first?

Gotta love the 300. I might be picking one up soon

I never saw why you had to remove the inner door handle. Why did you need to remove it?

wheres the link to the pivot bracket that has two

Great job guys. What was the turbo and the exhaust manifold you ended up using? Thx

I seen another video were a guy put window adhesive on the shaft . That seems like a better solution because it's not going to move at all and with it being rubber it will absorb impact from bumps in the road. I got a 94 flarside f150, on the outside it is such a nice truck but it's old and I traded a 2012 Nissan versa that drove like a new car so it's very irritating to have all that play in the steering wheel .my dad always had old trucks so I'm used to it but this truck is scary fast with a 5.0 and when it kicks out from underneath you that is a scary feeling with all that play I have in the steering wheel lol.

Great video thanks for the info.. now i can open doors too! Lol 😂😂

7:50 & 8:20 good idea busting it off with hammer

Dam you making a dam movie

Supercharged a 300 I6 in the 90's. Wasn't bad, but not worth it in the end. Returns really aren't a lot.

"Once these two screws are out we'll just throw them on the floor where they'll be lost forever." 😂 Thanks for the video.

such a useful tutorial! i followed your steps verbatim with no issues. it may help to know that some receivers already have the single sub input so you may need a Y splitter for your male RCA connections from your amp!

good goin' !!!

Huh?? I thought all the f-150s got the Mazda m5od?

Huge thanks for giving that part number brotha

I'm glad I found this video. I thought I was going to have to drop the springs to do this.

You just prevented the death rattle. Great job

my 1995 1st. 2nd. gear syncro sleeve has no three sets of three teeth, the are all the same. its like that on the 47. i ordered one and its the same. anyone else run into this. help

Appreciate the video. After watching it I had both open and fixed within 30 mins. Many different things can be used to brace that cable so if your stuck improvise

My temper says the dealer is fixing mine. Not my kind of DIY. Lol

Your compression test was definitely better than mine. I rebuilt a 79 f250 300 that wasn’t taken care of on 95 100 102 105 108 and 115 psi. It had to be bored .60 over and barely cleaned up. And this motor didn’t run horrible either.

That micanic joke got me!!😂😂 Just got a 02 Ford f150 How hard is it to replace the bed?

Good stuff and amusing! Thanks.

If your steering wheel locks, it’s not an old Ford.

Great video, thanks. This was perfect for me but the length of the cable for the upper bracket needed some “assistance.” I had to cut away more of the black plastic to make both fit but this was very helpful. I even stripped one of the fasteners too. Awesome.

Dude didn't fix shit.

this started as an Engine masters "how to" & turned into 4 guys try to turbo a truck over the weekend, type video, I love it.

@25:31Scared the shit out of me!

This model, in this colour, was my second automobile. I loved that little car, I always thought that it kind of looked like the bmw sedan from that era. And the mpg was wonderful as well. Seeing this video brought back a lot of memories, thank you.

For all you people still driving these old Ford Trucks I have come up with the easiest and safest way to replace Axle Pivot Bushings on your F150. You won't have to remove the tires or springs at all. You will need a set of ramps, a large floor jack, a ball joint replacement kit (Amazon $45), 2 Moog Bushings (Amazon $11 each), a 1/2 inch impact driver, an 18mm (or 13/16) wrench, a 21mm impact socket, a couple of medium pry bars or large screw drivers, a large torque wrench, a smaller flat chisel, an alignment punch and a saws all with a metal blade. Drive your truck on the ramps and set the parking brake. Take your large floor jack to the side you wish to repair and jack the truck up until the wheel lifts off the ramp. Slide under the truck, remove the axle bushing bolt with the 18mm/21mm wrench and socket. Pry the I axle beam arm down to expose the bushing and insert a second pry bar above the beam to hold it. Take the flat chisel and drive the rear metal edges of the bushing inward. If you are lucky you can take a flat end punch and drive the bushing forward by striking the bent edges of the metal bushing. (Don't try to press the bushing from the front to rear, you need to drive the bushing towards the front of the truck.) If you can't get it moving you can force out the metal core and use a saws all to cut through the rubber and slice through the metal case in two places. You might want to start with just cutting the metal casing along the rear edge and pry a little more of the edge up and try the punch again. Just a little cutting and edge prying can free it up for the punch to work. After you remove the bushing and clean the burrs out of the hole grease the new bushing and press in with the ball joint press and impact driver. It almost takes 3 hands to line up the heavy press while aligning it correctly. I used 2 hands and my big belly to do it. Don't drive the bushing all the way where the lip is flush, leave about a 3/16" gap like the factory did. Also be careful to use the right cup on the rear of the bushing so the bushing can protrude. It your bushing stops before it's all the way in you need to readjust the rear cup. I don't see how it would be possible to press this bushing in without an impact driver and ball joint press. Since you raised the one tire off the ground aligning the bushing holes is easy using the pry bar. I have seen videos of folks struggling with ratchet straps trying to align the bushing bolt holes but with the one tire off the ground it's easy. Put the bolt in and torque it to spec. The car ramps stay under the front wheels the whole time so I think it's better than using jack stands. I am a 70 year old, obese man and I could do this. You can too! Good luck!

About how much do you think you had in this build

Yo.. took me about 3hrs to finish. 39 minutes re-watching vid. 21 minutes of liquid courage. 24 minutes r/t to buy parts. Rest of time figuring out and scratching head why door open and close with whole assembly out. Whatever, great video. Was getting angry too!!!!